FRAME: 2010 Metal Rebel Contender
FORK: Race Classic
STEM: Elementary V3
BARS: Metal Bikes
GRIP: Jimmy Levan Signature
BAR-ENDS: Bar Savers
BRAKE: Evo II
LEVER: Monolever, Small
BRAKE PADS: Slim by Four
SPROCKET: Metal Bikes
CRANKS: Twombolt, 175mm
PEDALS: Trailmix
SEAT CLAMP: Integrated
SEAT POST: Intac
SEAT: Metal Bikes
HUB (F): G-Sport Marmoset
HUB (R): V3 Cassette
RIM (F): Seven K-A
RIM (R): Hazard Lite
TIRES: Dirt Path, K-Lyte, 2.2″
PEGS: JPEG Lighter
In case you were wondering what Jimmy’s riding these days, here a flipbook for you to look through! It’s an all metal bike for the guy who runs Metal Bikes. Read more for a brief Q&A about his setup and a few extra photos.
Also, keep checking back ’cause there’ll be a new video of Jimmy popping up soon!
While a lot of kids these days are going out and trying on the tallest, largest bars, you actually trim yours down. What’s the width on your bars and have they gotten wider at all throughout the years or are they still partying like it’s 1999?
My bars are cut down about an inch on each side. So yeah, they are narrow for the N.W. However, I must admit, they are wider than they were when I moved here 5 years ago.
Aside from trimming the bars, are there any other things about your setup that you’re particular about?
Just that it’s running solid. I’ve been riding too long to have a slapping chain or loose… anything running shitty.
You’re known to have done some of the biggest gaps in BMX. When it comes to jumping long distances and dropping from great heights, is there a specific geometry you’ve grown to prefer?
I’ve always been a 74% or 74.5% head tube guy. My rear end is 13.75″ and works great. I think landing those gaps you mentioned is just knowing the balance of your rig. You have to know when to drop your back wheel to land, as well as a steady trust on your frame and parts knowing that nothing is going to explode.
